Dear chefs: what are the perfect sides for Easter lamb?

2 days ago 7

What are the best sides to pair with lamb at Easter?
“Lamb has a deep, rich flavour; it’s distinctive, but it’s versatile, too,” say Jay Claus and Syrus Pickhaver of Rake at The Compton Arms in north London. “As long as you render the fat slowly and fully, so the flavour is released and the lamb is tender, you can take it in all sorts of directions.” Something “with good salinity”, be that gherkins or anchovies, is as good a start as any in their book, as is erring towards a “Greek vibe” for Anna Hedworth, author of Service (think “yoghurty, fresh or sharp things, such as tzatziki or salsa verde”). Happily, lamb also lends itself “beautifully to an abundance of fresh herbs, and to spring produce – asparagus, wild garlic, peas, fennel and globe artichokes,” adds Ben Allen, head chef at the Parakeet in north-west London.

When it comes to specific sides, however, that all really depends on how you’re cooking the lamb. That said, we can all agree potatoes are non-negotiable. “If the lamb is quite simple [with herbs and garlic, say], it can take the robustness of a dauphinoise,” says regular Guardian columnist Georgina Hayden. The richest spud dish of all gets Claus and Pickhaver’s vote, too – but with added anchovies to tick their salty box: “Slice potatoes and onions thinly, add anchovies and layer in an oven dish. Cover with cream, milk and some butter, then bake gently.” Hedworth, meanwhile, keeps things simpler, preferring to roast cubes of potato with lots of olive oil, garlic, rosemary and lemon peel, until “crisp on the outside and soft inside”.

Don’t forget to eat your greens, either. Hedworth suggests braising cabbage or cavolo nero to dress up with salsa verde: “Blitz whatever herbs you can get your hands on – mint, tarragon, dill, parsley – with garlic, dijon, red-wine vinegar, olive oil and salt.” Otherwise, give peas a chance: “These should be Birds Eye and unsullied by anything more creative than salt and butter,” say Claus and Pickhaver. Carrots, on the other hand, should be accompanied by thyme and honey and cooked “so they’re really sticky”, Hayden says, or a mustard cream, which is on Rake’s menu alongside a Barnsley chop: “Thin strands of carrot are soaked in sweet vinegar, then we add creme fraiche and a lot of dijon; the creaminess matches the fatty lamb, but it’s light and sweet.”

For a taste of sunnier climes, Hedworth puts cherry tomatoes (halved, if large) in a tray with smoked paprika, onion seeds, sugar, salt, olive oil and a mix of toasted and ground coriander seeds, cumin seeds and cardamom seeds. Roast until “fully soft and starting to blacken”, then pile on to Greek yoghurt: “The lamb juices melt into the tomatoes and yoghurt, making them really delicious.” For another simple side, Allen would be inclined to knock up a Turkish-style salad with chickpeas, cucumber, plenty of herbs and sumac. “Then just toss everything in olive oil and a squeeze of lemon for a vibrant, refreshing side.”

And if you’re going down the spiced lamb route – a slow-cooked shoulder with harissa, for example – rice would be very nice. “I’d make a lovely, herby pilaf to soak up all of those juices,” Hayden says, alongside some spiced carrots and braised fennel to seal the deal for the weekend’s big meal.