Mulled cherry cheesecake and chestnut ice-cream roll: Helen Goh’s showstopping Christmas pudding recipes

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Chestnut and vanilla ice-cream roll

Chestnut and vanilla ice-cream roll.
Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

A version of the retro classic arctic roll, this never fails to raise a smile. It combines a chocolate sponge with shop-bought vanilla ice-cream and candied chestnuts. Don’t be put off by the long method, it’s there to guide you for success. Once made and decorated, the roll will sit nicely in your freezer, ready to be taken out and brought to the table. Expect gleeful children and adults!

Serves 8-10
For the filling
vanilla ice-cream 1kg, good quality shop-bought
sweetened chestnut paste 120g

For the cake
milk 60ml, warm
cocoa powder 20g (preferably Dutch-processed)
instant coffee powder 1 tsp
caster sugar 140g
eggs 3 large, separated
sunflower oil 40ml
vanilla extract 1 tsp
self-raising flour 60g
fine sea salt ¼ tsp
icing sugar for dusting

To decorate
dark chocolate 100g, roughly chopped
double cream 80ml
icing sugar 2 tsp
vanilla extract ½ tsp
candied chestnut pieces (marron glacé) about 60g

Prepare the ice-cream log a day before assembling. Line a 30cm x 20cm baking tray (the same one you will use to make the cake later) with baking paper, making sure there is an overhang on the long sides of the tray. Using a large ice-cream scoop, place balls of the ice-cream along one of the long sides of the tray, then form a second layer of balls on top of the first layer. Fold the baking paper over the ice-cream and roll it up into a log – it should stay roughly the same length as the long side of the baking tin. Wrap the encased log in a long sheet of clingfilm, twisting the ends to seal, like a giant bon-bon. Squeeze gently to further shape into an evenly thick log. If it is softening too much to shape, place in the freezer for an hour or so to firm up a little before shaping it once more. Return to the freezer to freeze completely.

When the log has completely frozen, make the chocolate cake. Line the base and sides of a baking tray (the same one you used for the ice-cream log) with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 165C fan/gas mark 4½.

Combine the warm milk, cocoa powder and instant coffee in a large mixing bowl and stir with a whisk to dissolve. Add 70g of the caster sugar, the egg yolks, oil and vanilla, and whisk to combine. Sift the flour and salt directly into the bowl, whisk to incorporate, then set aside.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat on medium-high speed until white and foamy. Add the remaining 70g of sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until the mixture forms firm peaks. Using a handheld whisk, fold a third of the egg white mixture into the cocoa mixture until almost incorporated, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Fold gently but thoroughly, switching to a flexible spatula for the last few strokes to make sure it is fully combined, being careful not to knock out too much air from the beaten egg whites.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking tray and place in the oven. Bake for about 15 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and immediately drop the pan on to the kitchen bench from a height of about 20cm to “settle” the sponge. Let the sponge cool for about 5 minutes in the tin.

Sieve a light shower of icing sugar on to the sponge, then place a clean sheet of baking paper on top. Place a large chopping board on top and invert the cake. Carefully peel away the baking paper. Dust the sponge lightly once more with icing sugar, then place another sheet of clean baking paper on top. Using a rolling pin, gently roll the sponge to flatten it to about 1cm thick, then set aside to cool completely.

Once the sponge has cooled, spread the sweetened chestnut paste evenly on top. Remove the ice-cream log from the freezer and place it in the centre of the sponge. Using the baking paper underneath to assist you, gently roll the sponge around the ice-cream to completely enclose it. Wrap the ice-cream roll in the baking paper, then wrap the whole thing tightly in clingfilm and place in the freezer for at least 2 hours and up to 1 week.

To decorate the ice-cream roll, melt the chocolate and whip the vanilla cream: place the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl and melt over a small pan of simmering water. Set aside. Combine the cream, icing sugar and vanilla in a small bowl and whisk by hand until soft peaks form.

Remove the ice-cream roll from the freezer and transfer to a long serving plate or board. Drizzle the melted chocolate over the top (I use a piping bag), then pipe or dollop the cream in a strip along the centre. Place 8-10 pieces of candied chestnuts on the cream at regular intervals. The log can now be sliced and served, or returned to the freezer until ready to serve.

Cheesecake with mulled wine cherry compote

Cheesecake with mulled wine cherry compote.
Cheesecake with mulled wine cherry compote. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

I have given the crustless Basque cheesecake a festive twist here with a subtle orange flavour and a mulled wine cherry compote. The cherries are frozen, but bolstered by the more intensely flavoured dried variety and the mulled wine, it makes a delicious accompaniment to the creamy cheesecake. The cheesecake and the compote can both be prepared up to 3 days ahead and kept refrigerated.

Serves 10
For the cheesecake
caster sugar 250g
orange finely grated zest of 1 (keep the flesh for the compote, see below)
vanilla pod seeds from ½
cream cheese 840g (I use 3 x 280g tubs of Philadelphia), at room temperature
eggs 5 large, at room temperature
double cream 400ml
plain flour 60g
fine sea salt ¼ tsp

For the mulled wine cherry compote
port wine 250ml
orange 2 thick slices
bay leaves 2
cinnamon stick 1 large
whole cloves 3
star anise 2
frozen stoned cherries 300g
dried sour cherries or dried cranberries 60g
plum or other red jam 50g

Line a 20cm round springform cake tin by tearing off two large sheets of baking paper, each large enough to cover the base and sides of the tin. Scrunch the papers up to wrinkle them – this makes the paper more flexible – then uncrumple and flatten them out. Place one sheet inside the tin, pressing it down to the bottom and up along the sides of the tin. Place the second sheet over the first so the base and sides of the whole tin are covered, with a generous overhang all around the tin. Set the tin aside.

Preheat the oven to 190C fan/gas mark 6½.

To make the cheesecake, place the sugar, orange zest and vanilla seeds in the bowl of an electric mixer and rub them with your fingers until the sugar is tinged orange and smells highly fragrant. Add the cream cheese and attach the bowl to the mixer. Beat with the paddle attachment on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well and scraping the bowl with a flexible spatula between each addition. When the batter looks smooth, add the double cream and beat on medium-low speed to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer and sift in the flour and salt. Using a handheld whisk, mix together until the flour is fully incorporated.

Scrape the mix into the prepared cake tin and give it a firm rap on the kitchen bench to dispel any large air pockets. Place in the oven and bake for 50-55 minutes until the top is deep golden brown but the middle remains slightly jiggly when tapped lightly with your fingers. Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

To make the mulled wine cherry compote, combine the port wine, orange slices, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves and star anise in a medium saucepan. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat a little and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Strain the mulled wine and discard the solids, then pour the liquid back into the pan. Add the frozen cherries and dried cherries (or cranberries) and return the pan to a medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until slightly syrupy, about 8 minutes. Add the jam and cook for a further 2 minutes to thicken a little. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature before transferring to a serving bowl.

When ready to serve, unlatch the springform tin and use the baking paper overhang to lift the cheesecake out and on to a serving plate. Slice with a hot knife (dipped in hot water and wiped dry) and serve with a spoonful of the compote alongside.

Banana puddings with tahini butterscotch

Banana puddings with tahini butterscotch.
Banana puddings with tahini butterscotch. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

When the bananas are mottling fast in your cosy heated kitchen, make these puddings for a wonderfully warming dessert. Light in texture (all the better to absorb the delicious butterscotch sauce) and with a hint of spice, I love to bake them in individual moulds so each person gets their very own saucy little pudding. But if you prefer a less fussy, family-style presentation, bake the pudding in a large, buttered ovenproof dish (about 30cm x 20cm x 6cm) – just lower the temperature to 165C fan/gas mark 4½ and bake for about 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.

Makes 8 individual puddings
unsalted butter 250g, at room temperature, plus 10g extra, softened, for buttering the moulds
plain flour 170g
ground cinnamon 1 tsp
ground nutmeg ¼ tsp
ground cloves ¼ tsp
baking powder 1 tsp
baking soda ¼ tsp
fine sea salt ¼ tsp
caster sugar 180g
eggs 2 large, at room temperature
vanilla 1 tsp
bananas 2 large mottled (about 230g), peeled and mashed
toasted pecans 40g, roughly chopped
pouring cream to serve

For the tahini butterscotch
thickened cream 300ml
light brown muscovado sugar 180g
butter 80g, cut into 4 pieces
vanilla extract ½ tsp
tahini 50g
sea salt flakes ¼ tsp

Prepare 8 x 200ml pudding moulds by brushing liberally with the 10g of softened unsalted butter, then place the moulds on a baking tray and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 175C fan/gas mark 5½.

Sift the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl, then set aside.

Combine the 250g of butter and the sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with the paddle attachment on medium-high speed until light and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping the base and sides of the bowl with a flexible spatula after each addition. Add the vanilla and mashed bananas, mi x for a few seconds to combine, then add the sifted dry ingredients. Mix on low speed until just combined, then remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible spatula to fold through the batter a few times until fully combined.

Divide the batter between the 8 moulds – about 120g in each one. Place the moulds (still on the baking tray) into the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the puddings have risen and a skewer inserted into the middle of a pudding comes out clean. Allow the puddings to cool for a few minutes on the tray. Then, using a dry tea towel, carefully turn the hot puddings out on to serving plates.

While the puddings are in the oven, make the tahini butterscotch sauce by combining all the ingredients except the salt flakes in a medium saucepan. Place over low heat and stir gently until the butter has melted, then increase the heat and bring the sauce to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer for 90 seconds, then remove from heat. Stir in the sea salt and set aside until ready to serve.

Spoon the butterscotch generously over each pudding, allowing the sauce to dribble down the sides. Scatter a few chopped pecans on top and serve, passing the pouring cream around in a jug.

Pink grapefruit and yuzu drizzle cake

Pink grapefruit and yuzu drizzle cake.
Pink grapefruit and yuzu drizzle cake. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

A lovely cake to have on the kitchen counter, to slice and eat with a cup of tea on the days after Christmas when something simpler is called for. Yuzu juice adds a beautiful fragrance and complements the grapefruit so well. The fresh juice is difficult to come by, but the bottled variety is available in large supermarkets and online, and tastes just as good in this cake.

Serves 8
unsalted butter 100g, cut into 4 pieces, plus 10g, softened, for greasing the tin
sunflower oil 1 tbsp
caster sugar 300g
pink grapefruit finely grated zest of 1 (reserving juice for the glaze, see below)
eggs 4 large, at room temperature
double cream 150ml
plain flour 230g, plus extra for flouring the tin
baking powder 1¼ tsp
bicarbonate of soda ¼ tsp
fine sea salt ½ tsp

For the syrup
hot water 60ml
caster sugar 60g
yuzu juice 60ml

For the glaze
icing sugar 200g, sifted
yuzu juice 1 tbsp
pink grapefruit juice 2 tbsp

Brush a 23cm bundt tin liberally with the 10g softened butter, then dust lightly with a handful of flour. Tap and rotate the tin to make sure the flour coats the entire surface, then turn the tin upside down over the sink or rubbish bin and tap firmly to remove the excess flour. Set the tin aside in a cool place.

Preheat the oven to 160C fan/gas mark 4.

Put the 100g of butter in a small saucepan and place over low heat. When the butter has melted, add the oil, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool to tepid.

Place the sugar and grapefruit zest in the bowl of an electric cake mixer, and rub the zest and sugar together firmly with your fingers for a couple of minutes to release the fragrant citrus oils. Add the eggs, then beat with the whisk attachment on medium-high speed until light, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and continue to beat on medium-high speed for another 2 minutes until pale and slightly thickened.

Meanwhile, combine the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and sea salt in a medium bowl. Remove the mixing bowl from the electric mixer and sift the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. Using a handheld whisk, gently fold the mixture together, making sure the whisk reaches the bottom of the bowl. When nearly combined, add the tepid melted butter and oil mixture and fold through to incorporate, switching to a flexible spatula for the last few strokes.

Scrape the batter into the prepared bundt tin and place in the oven for about 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and cool in the tin on a wire rack for about 15 minutes.

When the cake has sat for about 15 minutes, begin to make the syrup: combine the hot water and caster sugar in a small bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the yuzu juice and stir to combine.

Using a bamboo or metal skewer, poke holes all over the cake (still in its tin) and drizzle the syrup all over. Allow the cake to cool completely before turning it out on to a cake platter.

To make the glaze, combine the icing sugar, yuzu juice and grapefruit juice in a small mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Spoon the glaze over the top of the cooled cake, allowing the glaze to drip prettily down the sides of the cake.

Rolled pavlova with pear, cranberry and ginger

Rolled pavlova with pear, cranberry and ginger.
Rolled pavlova with pear, cranberry and ginger. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

I love the contrast of crisp, crackly exterior and the gooey, marshmallowy interior of this rolled pavlova. It’s also easier to make than it looks – starting off as a flat-baked meringue it’s filled with mascarpone cream and rolled up with a deliciously tart cranberry and pear compote. This is my kind of yule log: light, fruity and beautiful. The compote can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept refrigerated, while the meringue can be made up to a day ahead, covered with a tea towel at room temperature until ready to roll.

Serves 8
egg whites 120g (from 4 large eggs), at room temperature
caster sugar 125g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
cornflour 1 tsp
white vinegar 1 tsp
fine sea salt ¼ tsp

For the pear and cranberry compote
pears 3, peeled, cored and diced into roughly 2cm pieces
fresh or frozen cranberries 300g
fresh ginger 10g, peeled and finely grated
caster sugar 60g
orange finely grated zest of 1
cinnamon stick 1

For the cream filling
mascarpone 100g
icing sugar 1 tbsp, plus more for dusting the pavlova
double cream 400ml
vanilla essence 2 tsp
bay leaves to decorate

To make the compote, put all the ingredients in a medium saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a boil, then reduce the heat a little. Simmer gently until the fruits have softened and the mixture looks thick and slightly syrupy, about 15 minutes. Allow the compote to cool, then remove the cinnamon stick and decant into a bowl until ready to use.

To make the pavlova, preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7 and line a rectangular baking tray about 34cm x 24cm with baking paper, allowing an overhang of a couple of centimetres on all sides.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment on medium-high speed until white and very foamy. Gradually add the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking for at least 5 minutes until the mixture is thick and glossy. Reduce the speed to low and add the vanilla, cornflour, vinegar and salt, then whisk for another minute to combine.

Scrape the meringue mix into the lined tin and use a small spatula to spread into an even layer. Place in the oven and immediately lower the heat to 160C fan/gas mark 4. Bake for 30 minutes, until the meringue is pale beige in colour and crusty on top. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely in the tin.

When ready to roll the meringue, prepare the cream filling. Combine the mascarpone and icing sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment until creamy. Add the double cream and vanilla essence, then continue to whip until soft waves form. Set aside in a cool place.

To roll the meringue, place a clean tea towel on top of the meringue (still in its tin), then place a large chopping board on top. Holding both the board and the tin, flip it over so the meringue is sitting on the tea towel on the chopping board. Lift the tin away and carefully peel away the baking paper.

Spread most of the cream filling (reserve about 100g for decorating) in an even layer on the meringue, then spoon most of the pear and cranberry compote (leave about 70g for topping) on top of the cream. Carefully spread the compote to an even layer.

To roll up the meringue, start with the long side closest to you, and using the tea towel to assist you roll the meringue up and over the filling until it forms a log. Gently pull the tea towel away as you roll, then slide the rolled pavlova on to a long platter with the seam side facing down.

Spoon the remaining cream along the centre of the pavlova and top with the remaining pear and cranberry compote. Poke a few bay leaves around the cranberries to decorate. Keep refrigerated or in a cool place until ready to serve. Sieve a little icing sugar on top just before serving.

Hazelnut praline semifreddo with salted chocolate sauce

Hazelnut praline semifreddo with salted chocolate sauce.
Hazelnut praline semifreddo with salted chocolate sauce. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

A no-churn semifreddo that comes together in about 10 minutes with some store-cupboard ingredients is a good thing at this time of the year. Once prepared and moulded, the semifreddo will sit happily in the freezer for about a week until ready to serve. Make the quick and delicious sauce on the day of serving.

Serves 8-10
For the semifreddo
condensed milk 1 x 397g tin
hazelnut praline paste 120g (such as Nutella)
unsweetened cocoa powder 30g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
fine sea salt ⅛ tsp
double cream 500ml

For the salted chocolate hazelnut sauce
caster sugar 40g
unsweetened cocoa powder 25g
sea salt flakes ¼ tsp
dark chocolate 80g, chopped
vanilla extract 1 tsp
double cream 200ml
boiling water 2 tbsp
roasted hazelnuts 120g, roughly chopped

Start by making the semifreddo. Choose a pudding-shaped bowl with about 1.5-litre capacity and line it with a couple of layers of clingfilm, making sure there is a generous overhang all around.

Place the condensed milk, hazelnut praline paste, cocoa powder, vanilla and salt in a large mixing bowl and whisk together until fully combined. Set aside.

Put the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment on medium-high speed until soft waves form. Using a flexible spatula, fold half of the cream into the chocolate hazelnut mixture until almost combined, then fold in the remainder until fully incorporated – be gentle but thorough – the cream should remain airy but there should not be any visible white streaks.

Scrape the mixture into the prepared bowl, smooth the top so it is even, then fold the clingfilm over to cover. Place in the freezer for 8-12 hours (and up to a week) until completely frozen.

When almost ready to serve, make the chocolate sauce. Place the sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a medium heatproof bowl, add the chocolate and vanilla, then set aside. Put the cream in a small pan and place over medium-low heat. When it comes to a simmer, remove from the heat and pour it over the chocolate mix. Add the boiling hot water and allow it to sit for 30 seconds, then whisk to a smooth sauce. Stir in half the hazelnuts, then decant the sauce into a jug and set aside until ready to serve.

To unmould the semifreddo, run a clean tea towel under hot tap water, then wring it out and drape under the round base of the bowl. After about 30 seconds, tug at the clingfilm to loosen it, then invert the bowl on to a serving plate with a lip (to contain the dripping sauce). Lift away the bowl and peel off the clingfilm. Allow the semifreddo to sit at room temperature for about 5 minutes to soften a little before drizzling some of the cooled chocolate hazelnut sauce on top. Scatter some of the remaining hazelnuts on top.

Slice into wedges with a hot knife (dipped in a jug of hot water and wiped dry), scattering some more hazelnuts on each plate. Serve immediately, passing around the extra sauce in the jug.

Helen Goh is a recipe developer and co-author of Ottolenghi Comfort (Ebury, £30) and Sweet (Ebury, £35)

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