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1 day ago
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I have known for months, maybe even a year, that a tin of tuna had fallen down the back of the cupboard. It was only when a tin of sardines followed it, and got stuck on the way, that I finally pulled everything out to save them. In return, they saved dinner.
Putting fish in a tin is a sustainable act (in principle, anyway), because it gives almost everlasting life to a product with an extremely short shelf life and an extremely high risk of waste. Another thing about tinned fish is the deep umami flavour that can develop during the curing and canning process (especially when the fish is preserved in a good-tasting brine or oil), which is not only deeply delicious, but thrifty, meaning that a small amount goes a long way. However, both these things depend on countless tangled factors. It is at moments such as this when I imagine I am Hattie Ellis at the beginning of her book What to Eat (which I am on a mission to see updated and reissued), standing in a shop and staring at the shelf, overwhelmed by “Sticky questions about food” and thinking, “Which tin should I choose?”
The Ethical Shopper website is an excellent resource and, in brief, when it comes to tinned tuna, its advice is to look for line- or pole-caught tuna, to choose skipjack and to avoid controversial brands. Another thing to look out for is the small, blue MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) label. Now, in recommending this, I must note that there has been a fair bit of well-reported controversy over this eco-label, with Ocean Rebellion calling for more transparency and for the MSC to enact substantial reforms. But this is also an example of controversy being a good thing, if it throws light on shady corners and, as a result, means we demand more of the bodies regulating something as crucial as fishing.
The label does, however, remain a good place to start when navigating choices around tinned fish. According to the MSC, the contents of the tin are certified, and from a fishery that has been independently assessed on three core principles: that fishing is at a level that ensures it can continue indefinitely and that the fish population remains productive and healthy; that it has good management of fishing activity, so other species and habitats within the ecosystem remain healthy; and that the fishery fully complies with relevant laws and is able to adapt to changing environmental circumstances.
Now to the circumstances of this week’s recipe, in which whatever tins are in your cupboard are the supercharged addition to potato cakes, and which, incredibly, all three members of the family enjoyed.
Tuna and lemon are great together, so either serve these cakes with wedges of lemon or make a lemon dressing by shaking together six tablespoons of olive oil, the zest of a lemon plus a tablespoon of lemon juice, two teaspoons of red-wine vinegar, a heaped teaspoon of dijon mustard, a teaspoon of honey, and some salt and pepper (an old jam jar is ideal here). Use the dressing on whatever mix of salad leaves you have, maybe with some thinly sliced raw beetroot or fennel, too, then serve with the piping hot fishcakes.
Potato and tinned fish cakes
Makes 8 cakes
1.2 kg floury potatoes
Salt and black pepper
150g tinned tuna, or sprats, sardine, mackerel in olive oil (drained weight)
1 large egg, lightly beaten, plus 1 extra, also lightly beaten, for dipping (or use milk)
2 tbsp grated parmesan, or grana padano, pecorino or other hard cheese (optional)
1 heaped tbsp minced parsley
A grating of nutmeg
Flour, for dipping
100g fine dry breadcrumbs
Olive oil and butter, for shallow frying
Scrub the potatoes, then boil them whole in plenty of well-salted water until tender. Drain, leave them to sit until cool, then peel. Mash the potatoes or pass them through a potato ricer or food mill, then add the fish, egg, cheese (if using), parsley, nutmeg, some salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, and mix. If you have the time, rest this mixture for an hour, so it cools and firms up.
Shape the mixture into about eight 6cm-wide patties, dip each one first into the flour, then into milk or the remaining beaten egg, and then roll in the breadcrumbs. In a frying pan, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil and a knob of butter until it foams, then shallow-fry the patties until they are deep golden on both sides.
