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Looking after your skin used to seem so simple: for decades, a basic “cleanse, tone, moisturise” routine was seen as the gold standard. But the skincare industry has recently exploded with thousands of new products, while skincare influencers have been racking up millions of views with often bewildering (and conflicting) advice.
So, should you be putting snail slime or beef tallow on your face, like that video you saw on TikTok? And which products are safe for your teenager to use, if any? We spoke to eight dermatologists to find out their own skincare routines – and which mistakes they see most often. Spoiler: none of them use snail slime.
‘I wish I’d known my skin was beautiful when I was younger’
Dr Angela Tewari, consultant dermatologist at King’s College hospital, London, and founder of the Dermatology Studios
What’s your daily skincare routine?
At the moment I’m using a mild glycolic wash from Tropic, which contains jojoba oil, because I’m prone to dry skin. I then use a DNA repair serum by Neova, which has a number of encapsulated enzymes that fight off residual sun damage, followed by Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment by SkinCeuticals, which enhances radiance. This is followed by Clinique’s Moisture Surge Sheertint Hydrator SPF 25.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
Nivea body lotion Q10. It contains nourishing almond oil and I feel I’m rejuvenating my body.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
Snail mucin – it contains hyaluronic acid, but putting snails on your face or using their slime is not my cup of tea. There are cheaper ways of getting moisture into the skin with a more generic hyaluronic acid.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
They should be avoiding glycolic acids, high-dose salicylic acid and retinoids – anything that would increase the turnover of their skin cells. Until our early 20s, our skin turnover is excellent, so we do not need to accelerate this at a younger age.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
I’ve found the Lightinderm LED device very helpful. You insert capsules of DNA repair enzymes into it and these are activated by the wavelengths it produces. This enables repair of any sun-induced changes and pigmentation, and it lifts skin. The device costs £400.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
I wish I’d known that, actually, my skin is beautiful, but it’s very hard to realise that at the time – we always think we look a lot worse than we do.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
DNA Total Repair serum by Neova. It goes on the skin after washing and improves radiance while reducing fine lines and helping with pigmentation.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
People going for filler when they really need a booster – polynucleotide injections are anti-inflammatory and promote collagen – and good skincare.
What do you do that would surprise people?
Sometimes if I’m very tired, after putting my three children to bed, I don’t take my makeup off before going to sleep. Ideally, you should remove those layers of dirt and pollution at night, as we know they contribute to oxidative stress and skin damage.
‘Advice to my younger self? Don’t waste money on luxury brands’
Dr Ophelia Veraitch, consultant dermatologist at 101 Harley Street and University College London Hospitals NHS foundation trust
What’s your daily skincare routine?
During my morning shower, I cleanse with Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser. Then I apply one of my Hyperpigmentation Day Serums, a prescription product to target pigmentation, which I am prone to. Next, I apply the Skinceuticals Skin Brightening SPF 30. At night-time, I use the Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Cleanser Gel and apply my Dr Ophelia Acne Night Serum, which helps prevent congestion.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
The Cetaphil cleanser is gentle and suitable for my whole family, including a daughter with mild eczema and a son who is beginning to develop mild acne. Cetraben Moisturising Lotion is suitable for everyone’s face and body.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
Collagen supplements – there are no high-quality scientific or clinical studies to suggest that ingesting collagen helps restore the lost collagen in our skin. Similarly, biotin supplements (taken to thicken hair) interfere with a large number of blood tests, including those used for diagnosing heart attacks and thyroid function. There is an FDA warning against biotin supplementation, and I have seen a number of patients with excessive hair shedding caused by taking these supplements.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
My daughter recently turned 10, and I had offers from other parents to buy her skincare vouchers, which I politely declined on her behalf. I don’t want her getting obsessed with these trends that could damage her skin. She and my 12-year-old son both use Cetaphil in the shower, and Cetraben as a moisturiser. On occasion, I have given them stronger products to help get rid of patches of dry skin or breakouts of spots.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
Once a year I have Thermage FLX – a radio frequency device that is very good for tightening and lifting the skin. It costs about £2,000 for a full face treatment and gives very natural, but definite, results. It’s good for those who aren’t open to surgical options; I’m finding that patients are wanting to go for cosmetic surgery less and less.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
Not to waste money on luxury brands. I suffered from awful acne and pigmentation when I was younger, despite always buying into the most expensive ranges. As a result, I am highly sensitive to many ingredients, which has taught me simple skincare with effective treatments is the best approach.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
A daily SPF.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
Only wearing an SPF in the summer rather than all year round; following skin influencers on social media instead of seeking proper professional help; rotating through many different skincare products.
What do you do that would surprise people?
I often go through long periods of just cleansing, then using an SPF. If serums for hyperpigmentation or acne work, you shouldn’t need to keep using them for ever!
‘Even inside, if I am using a computer, I wear an SPF’
Dr Tanja Phillips, laser and aesthetic medicine specialist at the HVN, alongside her own clinic
What’s your daily skincare routine?
ZO Skin Health is my go-to. I use its exfoliating cleanser in the morning, which has tiny biodegradable beads to remove dead skin cells, followed by one of ZO’s Complexion Renewal Pads. Next, I apply its Firming Serum, which has a lot of growth factors and peptides to stimulate new growth and improve skin barrier function. After that, I apply Daily Power Defense, which also helps to improve cell turnover, followed by Heliocare 360° Pigment Solution Fluid, which protects against UVA, UVB and HEV (blue light from devices). I’ve just started using AWvi products, which work with your gut and skin microbiome. I use their cleanser, serum and face cream in the evening, which comes with an oral dose of probiotics – you sprinkle them on your tongue to help regenerate skin from the inside out.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
CeraVe face washes are great – they’re unscented and uncomplicated, and have good clinical trials behind them. They’re very effective for anyone with combination skin or acne.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
Lemon Bottle fat-dissolving injections. They’ve been huge on TikTok, and my clinics get a lot of calls requesting them, but for me, the answer has to be no – there aren’t any good clinical trials to suggest they are effective. Instead, I’d recommend injecting a product called Pluryal, which is very effective at breaking down the membrane of fat cells, helping to get rid of stubborn pockets such as back fat or love handles.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
I love that children are interested in skin health, and I wouldn’t pooh-pooh their interest, but it doesn’t mean that they have to be obsessed. They just need a good, gentle facial wash (CeraVe is great), there’s no need for acids or exfoliants. Most young people don’t need any additional hydration, but I would recommend an SPF every single day from as young as possible. From about 20 they can start considering whether they might need a moisturiser, but most 20-year-olds won’t.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
I’m a big laser fan. Fotona is a collagen-stimulating laser, which is a natural way of improving cell turnover, and one of the few treatments that work on rosacea. For younger people, it can be great for treating excessive oiliness and acne. It’s versatile, safe, and delivers results with no need for downtime because it penetrates the glands without damaging the surface. It costs from about £550 for a treatment.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
I was a sun-worshipper – I wish I’d known to use SPF come rain or shine. I tell patients of every age that SPF will save them spending a fortune seeing people like me for pigmentation reduction, loss of collagen, and wrinkles. You can still tan while wearing SPF, just stay in the shade during the hottest part of the day.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
Other than my SPF, a good cleanser (such as the ZO Exfoliating Cleanser) to get rid of pollutants.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
It amazes me how many people don’t wash their face properly. I wouldn’t recommend using just cleanser and your fingers – you’d be surprised how much more comes off if you use a mitt or muslin cloth. I always recommend a double cleanse in the evening to prevent free radicals from damaging your skin overnight. Also, applying SPF from the middle of the face out and forgetting the edges. I see a lot of pigmentation towards the hairline where SPF hasn’t reached.
What do you do that would surprise people?
Even if I’m inside without any windows, if I am using a computer screen, I will wear an SPF to protect from HEV rays (blue light), which contribute to overall skin damage. When choosing an SPF it should protect against UVA, UVB and HEV rays.
‘Homemade sunscreen is an absolute no – never do that!’
Dr Aamna Adel, consultant dermatologist and skin and hair loss specialist
What’s your daily skincare routine?
I’ve got quite dry skin so I don’t use a cleanser first thing – for people with dry, sensitive skin, splashing your face with water in the morning is fine. I use the Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water, which hydrates my skin, followed by SkinCeuticals’ Dual Antioxidant Treatment with vitamin C. At the moment I’m using the Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid cream to moisturise, and a sunscreen. I love La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 because it’s tinted. In the evening, I double cleanse using CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser. I use a prescription tretinoin, then a Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream, which is anti-ageing without being irritating.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
Nivea is a great budget sunscreen – it’s much cheaper than anything else on the market without any of the greasiness or chalkiness of cheaper brands.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
People using beef tallow as an alternative to moisturiser. A lot of “natural” trends tend to do more harm than good. There’s no evidence that animal fat is particularly hydrating, and it’s more likely to cause irritation than a standard moisturiser. Homemade sunscreen is another absolute no – never do that!
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
My daughter is two-and-a-half and she’s already interested in skincare – I think a lot of children watch their mums do a skincare routine and want to copy them. Children only need to use a cleanser and an SPF and moisturiser combo, for simplicity. In my clinic, I see a lot of young people who have damaged skin barriers from using products that aren’t designed for them. Early exposure to certain active ingredients, such as retinol and vitamin C, can lead to allergies in the long term.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
There’s lots of data to suggest that LED masks help to stimulate collagen. CurrentBody has a good one. It costs £399.99.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
I wish I’d known to take my makeup off before bed when I was at university. It dries out the skin and leads to irritation.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
Eucerin UreaRepair Original is my ride-or-die face cream. It’s great if you have dry skin, or just want to keep a baseline of hydration.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
Doing too much. Overcomplicated skincare routines lead to skin not being as healthy as it should be. There’s also a misconception that skincare alone can fix everything – when it comes to things like acne or rosacea, it’s better to seek professional advice early on. It’s much easier to treat acne with antibiotics or prescription retinoids than to treat acne scarring.
What do you do that would surprise people?
I don’t use retinol every day – the goal shouldn’t be to get to everyday use, it should be to get to a frequency that works for you. On average, I use it three times a week.
‘I don’t reapply my SPF during the day. I’m too lazy!’
Dr Joney De Souza, aesthetic doctor and member of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine
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What’s your daily skincare routine?
I always advise people to keep it simple: a good cleanser, antioxidant and retinol. The cleanser should have salicylic acid – it works like a detergent to scoop out all the oil and dirt inside the pores, which can become blackheads (the ZO Exfoliating Cleanser has a high concentration). Then I apply an antioxidant vitamin C serum – SkinCeuticals has a very good range. I wear SPF 30 during the daytime because I have very oily skin, so I can end up breaking out. At night I use a Retinol Skin Brightener from ZO.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
Eucerin moisturisers are nicely priced and not too oily – they work really well.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
The “glass skin” trend encourages people to use whitening products designed for those experiencing melasma, which is pigmentation that appears during pregnancy. They contain hydroquinone, a bleaching agent used by people in a lot of Indian and African countries, that can lead to serious complications.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
Children have thinner skin barriers, so it’s important to use sensitive products. I would recommend La Roche-Posay moisturiser and a spray SPF because it’s easier to apply if they hate being rubbed. For a teenager with oily skin and breakouts, I’d suggest a cleanser with salicylic acid, something like Clean & Clear. For young people with eczema, products with lactic acid are very moisturising.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
A red-light treatment – the results are incredible. It stimulates circulation so it promotes healing, and can be used for hair loss. We usually combine it with other treatments: CO2, chemical peels or facials. Red-light treatments are quick and easy, so can be done from about £60 a session.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
Growing up in Brazil, I wish I’d known the importance of SPF – sun exposure is the cause of 80-90% of visible ageing. Some people are good at applying SPF to their face, but forget their arms. You risk not only dark pigmentation but white spots (loss of pigmentation), which you cannot get rid of.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
Retinol. As we age, our skin becomes lazy, which means a buildup of dead skin, which looks very dull and sallow. Retinol causes enough irritation to increase the speed of cell turnover. I would recommend retinol for everyone – sometimes people with sensitive skin think that they can’t use it, but it’s just a matter of using a lower dose and adapting.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
People like using very oily, buttery creams – expensive ones like Crème de la Mer. They feel amazing when you apply them, but what you are doing is adding oil on top of dead skin cells, which encourages your skin to be even lazier and dull-looking. A lot of people have the impression that Dior or Chanel skincare is the best, but it doesn’t contain any active ingredients because they don’t want their consumers to complain that they’ve caused irritation. People often think that they’re allergic to products that are actually doing their job.
What do you do that would surprise people?
I don’t reapply my SPF during the day. I’m too lazy!
‘Bottom line: smearing animal fat on your face isn’t the best idea’
Dr Jonathan Kentley, consultant dermatologist at Montrose London and Chelsea and Westminster hospital
What’s your daily skincare routine?
In the morning I wash my face with warm water in the shower, then I use the Dr Rossi Derm MD range, which contains a sea anemone peptide to prevent irritation. The range consists of an essence containing lactic acid and niacinamide, a serum with hyaluronic acid and a titanium dioxide-based mineral sunscreen. In the evening I’ll cleanse with a simple CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, or a twice-weekly hydroxy acid, which acts as an exfoliant. This is followed by the all-important tretinoin and a low-potency retinoid around the eyes (I like skinbetter’s EyeMax AlphaRet Overnight Cream).
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
I don’t believe you need to spend a huge amount on moisturisers. I’ll use one of the pharmacy brands like La Roche-Posay, Avène or Eucerin as they have ranges formulated for all skin types at a good price point – but even Nivea and Simple are absolutely fine.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
The TikTok trend for applying beef tallow to the face has been pushed as a solution to many skin problems. Personally, I find this mad. Beef fat is really greasy and blocks pores, and I’ve seen a few patients come to the clinic with quite severe acne breakouts as a result. Bottom line: smearing animal fat on your face probably isn’t the best idea.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
Keep it simple: sunscreen and a moisturiser if they are prone to dry skin. The trend for tweenagers to use actives like retinoids and hydroxy acids does more harm than good – they aren’t meant for immature skin.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
I was quite sceptical of LED face masks when they appeared on the market, but there is quite a lot of evidence that they are beneficial. I also like to do an annual non-ablative fractional laser. This essentially drills microscopic holes in your face and your body’s response is to create new collagen and elastin as a wound-healing response, leaving the skin with great tone and texture, and preventing fine lines.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
Definitely sunscreen. With 80-90% of visible ageing and the vast majority of skin cancers caused by UV exposure, it can never be too soon to start using it!
What’s the product you can’t live without?
Lanolips 101 Ointment. This rich hydrating cream is amazing as a lip balm as well as for dry patches on the hands, elbows or anywhere.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
Overdoing it! Patients often apply about 20 different actives and turn up to clinic with a carrier bag full of serums that are actually causing significant skin irritation. It’s important to stick to a few effective actives tailored to your individual skin needs.
What do you do that would surprise people?
If I’m being completely honest, I don’t wear SPF on a cloudy day in winter, especially if I’m going to be at work all day. Cancer-causing UVB rays are very low in winter, and even though UVA (which is responsible for ageing) is present all year round, it seems that in the UK it is at lower levels than previously thought. The amount of UVA I encounter on my morning commute is unlikely to cause much damage.
‘Follow your skin type, not trends’
Dr Sharon Belmo, clinical lead for skin of colour at the Centre of Evidence Based Dermatology at the University of Nottingham
What’s your daily skincare routine?
In the morning I wash my face with Dr Naana Fresh Face Cleanser, which is packed with soothing and moisturising ingredients such as an oat-derived surfactant, aloe vera and glycerin. It has been tested on all skin types, which is a rarity. Afterwards, I apply Revision Skincare C+ Correcting Complex and Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion, which is very moisturising without clogging the pores. My favourite sunscreen is Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield in bronze. In the evening, I use the same cleanser and renewal lotion.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
Eucerin Aquaphor – it’s the best for dry lips.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
DIY or bargain injectables/fillers – these should only be performed by a licensed professional. Unfortunately, the market is very poorly regulated in the UK and there are many non-medical practitioners performing such procedures in beauty salons or even at home. To stay safe, choose a qualified medical professional, eg a dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon, GP, dentist or nurse, who is fully registered with the relevant professional body (for doctors, the General Medical Council; for nurses, the Nursing and Midwifery Council).
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
I did not think about skincare as a tween – I think it has gone too far. Less is more for most people, but particularly at this age. My daughter is five and I focus on hydration, with fragrance-free moisturisers such as CeraVe moisturising cream. Unless prescribed, I would not advise tweens to be using retinoids.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
Microneedling – this is a great multifunctional treatment and can be used on all skin types. It uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries to the skin, boosting collagen, which can improve the texture and appearance of the skin. It can also be used to treat fine lines, acne scars and hyperpigmentation. It costs about £100-£300 a session (usually sold in packages).
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
Sunscreen! The prominence of uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, as a result of exposure to UV light being so prominent in darker skin tones, was not discussed when I was younger.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion is my go-to. It is light but packed with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which help retain moisture levels. The cream version is richer and perfect for winter or more mature skin.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
Using too many products, too many steps and over-exfoliating, all of which can lead to skin irritation. A basic routine is cleanser, antioxidant-based product, if you are using one, moisturiser, and sunscreen in the morning. Then, at night: cleanser, retinoid-based product, if you are using one, and moisturiser. There may be additional steps for specific concerns such as acne, ageing skin or hyperpigmentation but I would advise taking advice from a dermatologist, who may prescribe treatments that are multifunctional and more efficient.
What do you do that would surprise people?
I don’t use a retinoid/retinol! They’re great, but not for everyone. For some, they are too harsh and cause irritation. Follow your skin type, not trends.
‘The best product? The one you like to wear every day’
Dr Rhys Beynon, GMC-registered aesthetic doctor with a background in surgery and emergency medicine
What’s your daily skincare routine?
I like to keep things as simple as possible; the three essential products I recommend for most of my clients are sunscreen, vitamin C and retinol/tretinoin. In the shower, I cleanse using AlumierMD’s SensiCalm Cleanser before applying its 15% vitamin C serum, which helps with fine lines and wrinkles, boosts collagen and brightens the skin. I use La Roche-Posay Anthelios Age Correct, an SPF, which also contains hyaluronic acid and niacinamide so I don’t need to add a moisturiser. In the evening, I use a prescription-only tretinoin, which improves skin texture and helps fight fine lines and wrinkles. I prefer prescription tretinoin to retinol because it is more potent and gives better results.
What’s your bargain beauty buy?
CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser is a perfect gentle cleanser that will refresh the skin without overstripping it or leaving it feeling tight and dry. It contains ceramides that help boost your skin’s natural barrier. I also love The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid suspension 10%. Azelaic acid is a natural and effective antioxidant found in grains; I often recommend this product to clients who have redness, rosacea or acne. It also helps improve skin texture, so is a great anti-ageing treatment, too.
Which beauty trend would you never recommend trying, and why?
There are so many! But my main concern at the moment is about plasma pen treatments, which use an electrical current to heat the skin, causing it to contract and tighten. If done incorrectly, this can cause bad scarring and long-term skin damage.
What skincare do you recommend for children – and what should they stay away from?
I think it’s amazing that young people are thinking about their skin, but I do have significant concerns about the effect of social media on young people’s perceptions of themselves. I’m also concerned that the information they see is not regulated and maybe not aimed directly at teenagers – adolescents should not be using active ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol (unless prescribed by a doctor). Young skin is very delicate and should only need a gentle cleanser, light moisturiser and factor 50+ sunscreen if out in the sun. Paula’s Choice has some good advice for managing teenage breakouts.
What treatment/gadget would you blow the bank on?
I’d recommend CurrentBody’s Dermalux Flex MD LED Light Therapy Device, which is the most powerful light-treatment device that you can have at home, and is three times more powerful than other home devices. It has three light sources: red light, which is anti-inflammatory and boosts collagen and hydration in the skin; near-infrared light, which works at a deeper level for healing; and blue light, which is great for acne/breakouts. It’s mainly used in clinics, but the company does sell them for home use. This device costs £1,999.
What skincare advice would you give your younger self?
To stay out of the sunshine and to start wearing factor 50 every day – when my clients come for a skincare consultation, including a factor 50 SPF is the first step I add to their daily routine. I’m always asked what the best product is and I always say, “It’s the one that you like to wear every day.” There are hundreds on the market so find the one that suits you.
What’s the product you can’t live without?
At the moment, I’m obsessed with AlumierMD MicroDerm Polish – it leaves my skin feeling so smooth, refreshed and polished.
What’s the most common mistake you see?
People buying expensive skincare products that don’t have any active ingredients in them. They don’t work at a cellular level, they just make the skin feel nice.
What do you do that would surprise people?
I have very few steps to my skincare routine. When things get busy, all I manage to do is wash my face in the shower and put my sunscreen on – life is complicated enough as it is!
