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5 hours ago
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When the thought of eating hot meals seems unbearable, chilled soups will help you beat the heat. Today’s ones are cooling, nourishing, hydrating and a little more fortifying than the usual chop-and-blitz raw soups such as gazpacho. As much as I love those, sometimes I want something I can get my teeth into; something with the satisfying chew of cold noodles, or a crunchy or herbaceous topping. These are perfect for dining al fresco, or to pour into jars and take along to a picnic.
Cold fragrant coconut yoghurt soup with rice noodles and cucumbers
This silky soup (pictured top), thickened with gram flour, gets its mellowness from sweet, comforting coconut yoghurt.
Prep 15 min
Cook 50 min
Chill 4 hr+
Serves 4
350g natural coconut yoghurt
30g chickpea flour
½ tsp turmeric
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
1 pinch of asafoetida (optional)
15 fresh curry leaves
4 makrut lime leaves, stems removed and discarded, leaves torn
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 stick cinnamon, broken up
1 thumb of ginger, peeled and grated
2 sticks lemongrass, white parts only, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped, seeds and all
1 heaped tsp soft brown sugar
Sea salt
1 cucumber, very thinly sliced
250g flat, wide rice noodles
Juice of 2 limes
1 long red chilli, sliced on the diagonal, seeds and all
Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish
Whisk the yoghurt, chickpea flour and turmeric in a large bowl until smooth, then gradually beat in one and a half litres of water until there are no lumps.
Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan and, once hot, sprinkle in the mustard seeds. As soon as they pop, add the asafoetida, curry leaves and lime leaves and, once they are in turn crackling, follow with the cumin seeds and cinnamon. Saute briefly, then add the ginger, lemongrass and chillies, and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Pour in the yoghurt mix, add the sugar and season with sea salt.
Cook, stirring constantly, on a medium heat until the mix comes to a boil, then turn the heat to low and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes. Take off the heat, leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for at least four hours, until very cold.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the cucumber slices with a teaspoon sea salt, leave for 15 minutes, then rinse, drain and squeeze out any excess water.
Soak the noodles in boiling water for five minutes (or cook them according to the packet instructions), then drain, place in ice-cold water and drain again.
Divide the noodles between four bowls. Add the lime juice to the broth and mix – if it’s too thick, add a splash of water to loosen. Ladle the broth over the noodles, scatter over the cucumber, chilli and coriander, and serve.
Chilled pea, green curry and Thai basil soup
This verdant soup made with sweet peas gets a spiky kick of flavour from the convenience of a ready-made curry paste, while fresh Thai basil adds vibrancy.
Prep 5 min
Cook 30 min
Chill 4 hr+
Serves 4
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
2 tbsp green Thai curry paste – I use Mae Ploy
500g podded fresh peas, or frozen and defrosted peas
400g hot vegetable stock
400ml coconut milk
1 large handful Thai basil
50g spinach
Juice of 1 juicy lime
Asian microgreens or pea shoots, to garnish
Melt the coconut oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat, then saute the spring onions until softened. Add the curry paste and saute, stirring, for five minutes until fragrant, then stir in the peas and pour over the stock. Reserve four tablespoons of the coconut milk, then tip the rest into the pan and simmer for five minutes.
Roughly chop the Thai basil and spinach, then add to the pan and simmer for five minutes. Take off the heat and blitz smooth using a stick blender or food processor. Leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for at least four hours.
Before serving, squeeze in the lime juice, then divide between four bowls, drizzle over the reserved coconut milk and garnish with microgreens or pea shoots.
Cold tomato rasam with curry leaf and peanut ‘furikake’
Be warned, this peanut furikake is highly addictive – you’ll want to sprinkle it over just about everything.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Chill 4 hr+
Serves 4
For the peanut furikake
1 tbsp coconut oil
50g salted roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
15 curry leaves, torn
25g unsweetened desiccated coconut
3 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tsp nigella seeds
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
2 nori sheets, crumbled and toasted
1 tbsp pure maple syrup
¾ tsp chilli powder
½ tsp sea salt
For the rasam
5 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
1 banana shallot, peeled and finely chopped
100g tamarind paste
25g light brown soft sugar
2 tbsp coconut oil or ghee
1 tsp mustard seeds
¼ tsp asafoetida (optional)
15 fresh curry leaves
1 star anise
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 green chillies, finely chopped, seeds and all
30g piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
1 tsp ground coriander
¾ tsp coarsely ground black pepper
1 tsp ground turmeric
To make the furikake, melt the coconut oil in a frying pan, then add the peanuts, curry leaves, coconut, sesame seeds, nigella seeds and mustard seeds, and fry over a low heat for about five minutes, until golden brown and toasty. Add all the remaining furikake ingredients, stir briefly for 30 seconds, then spread over a baking sheet and leave to cool completely.
Now for the rasam. Put the tomatoes, shallot, tamarind and sugar in a large saucepan with a litre and a half of water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until the tomatoes and shallot have broken down.
Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil or ghee in a frying pan on a medium-low heat, then add the mustard seeds. Once they pop, add the asafoetida, if using, curry leaves, star anise and cumin, and fry, stirring, for a minute. Add the chillies and ginger, and fry for about two or three minutes, until fragrant. Sprinkle in the ground coriander, pepper and turmeric, fry for 30 seconds, then pour into the tomato broth and leave to bubble gently over a low heat for a further 15 minutes.
Take off the heat, leave to cool, then cover and chill in the fridge for four to six hours, until cold. Ladle into bowls and serve sprinkled with the furikake.
