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4 days ago
2
Mutton rarely gets the attention it deserves. It’s a mature meat, so is naturally sustainable, and it has a depth and richness that younger cuts simply cannot offer. That robustness is exactly what makes it so rewarding to cook with. Mutton’s bold character stands up beautifully to spices, aromatics and slow cooking, so it’s ideal for curries, stews and braises; on the grill, meanwhile, it takes on smoke in a way that enhances its complexity, rather than overwhelming it. You’re unlikely to find mutton in the supermarket, so you’ll need to make a trip to the butcher’s (many halal ones sell it) or order online.
Rogan josh (pictured top)
This Kashmiri curry is traditionally made with lamb, but I prefer using mutton neck, because it has so much more flavour.
Prep 20 min
Cook 3 hr+
Serves 4
For the spiced yoghurt
250ml full-fat yoghurt
1½ tsp ground fennel seeds (toast about 1¼ tsp fennel seeds, then grind)
1 tsp ground ginger
6 saffron strands
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp mild red chilli powder – deggi mirch for preference
¼ tsp ground turmeric
For the rogan josh
6 tbsp ghee
4 whole black cardamom pods
1 tsp black peppercorns
5 cloves
1½kg bone-in mutton neck, or lamb neck, cut into 5cm chunks
Salt and black pepper
1 tbsp garlic paste (optional)
1 tbsp ginger paste (optional)
1 tbsp caramelised onion puree (this is a mainstay of my kitchen: saute sliced onion in a little ghee until caramelised, then blend to a puree with a little water)
1 tbsp kashmiri chilli paste (another kitchen mainstay: soak kashmiri chillies in a little water to rehydrate them, then blitz smooth)
1 litre hot lamb stock, or boiling water
Chopped fresh coriander, to finish
Mix all the ingredients for the spiced yoghurt in a bowl, and set aside.
Next, make the rogan base. Melt the ghee in a casserole over a medium heat, add the black cardamom, peppercorns and cloves, and cook, stirring, until they smell fragrant and infuse the ghee. Add the mutton and a teaspoon of salt, and saute, stirring, for 10-15 minutes, until nicely coloured all over. Add the garlic and ginger pastes, if using, and cook for a couple of minutes, until they no longer smell raw. Add the pureed onion and chilli paste, and cook, still stirring, for another five minutes.
Stir the yoghurt mix into the pot, turn down the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring, for about five minutes, until the fat separates. Add the stock, cover with a tight-fitting lid and leave to cook on a low heat for two to two and a half hours, until the mutton is very tender. Take off the lid, turn up the heat and reduce the sauce until it thickens to your liking.
Season to taste and serve topped with fresh coriander and with rice and/or naan or rotis on the side, and perhaps a kachumber to cut the richness of the meat.
Keema pau
A popular Indian street food featuring a spicy, flavourful mince curry served in soft, buttered pan-fried pau, or bread rolls.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4
For the green paste
2-3 ice cubes
1 generous handful fresh coriander
20 mint leaves
3 green chillies, stalks discarded (remove the pith and seeds if you prefer less heat)
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
3 green cardamom pods
1 black cardamom pod
10 black peppercorns
For the keema
100ml neutral vegetable oil
2 onions, peeled and diced
Salt
5 tbsp ginger and garlic paste
½ turmeric powder
2 tsp mild chilli powder – deggi mirch for preference
3 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp ground cumin
1kg mutton mince, or lamb mince
150ml yoghurt, whisked
300g frozen petit pois
3-4 green chillies, slit open lengthways
To finish
1-2 tbsp butter, or ghee
1 tbsp kasuri methi (ground dried fenugreek leaves)
1 tsp garam masala
1 big handful roughly chopped fresh coriander
4 pau, or brioche buns, halved, buttered and lightly toasted in a hot pan
Put all the ingredients for the green paste in a blender and blitz to a smooth puree; if need be, add a splash of water to help things along.
Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-based saute pan, then add the onions and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring, on a low to medium heat for 15 minutes, until soft and golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic paste, cook, stirring, for three or four minutes, until it no longer smells raw, then stir in the turmeric, chilli powder, ground coriander and cumin.
Tip in the mutton mince and, stirring often, saute in the spiced onion mix for about 10 minutes, until it’s starting to colour and all signs of rawness have gone. Stir in the beaten yoghurt and cook, stirring, for about five minutes more, until the oil separates.
Stir in the green paste, then turn down the heat to a bare simmer and leave to cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring at regular intervals. Add the green peas and green chillies, stir and leave to cook on a low heat for a final 20 minutes; if the keema looks like it might start to catch, add a splash of water.
To finish, stir in the butter, kasuri methi and garam masala, season to taste, garnish with fresh coriander and serve in toasted soft buttered rolls or with rice or flatbreads.
