How to turn scallop roe into a delectable butter – recipe | Waste not

Beyond Jersey’s epic beaches and rugged coastline, the island has an extraordinary food culture, rooted in both land and sea. From world-renowned jersey royal new potatoes to scallops sweeter and more tender than I’ve tasted anywhere, Jersey’s bounty is second to none. What excites me most, though, is how local farmers and producers are embracing regenerative agriculture, and in doing so reimagining the island’s food future with creativity and care. At the heart of that movement is Regen Gathering, a visionary festival that brings together farmers, chefs and food lovers to explore what Jersey’s foodtopia could look like.

Last month, I was lucky enough to host a talk at the event, and cook a welcome dinner for all the speakers, alongside Regen’s inspiring founder, India Hamilton. Of course, scallops had to be on my menu, because they’re Jersey at its finest: delicate, plump and singing of the sea.

Scallops seem to me the ultimate symbol of Jersey’s food future: sweet, plump and regenerative by nature, filtering and cleaning the sea while helping to build coastal habitats. Both farmed and, importantly, diver-caught, they’re one of the most sustainable proteins we can eat. Yet even Hamilton, who was raised on the island from the age of five, doesn’t eat the roes – a common affliction, I fear. All the more reason to champion these coral-pink morsels, which are far too delicious to discard. Whipped into butter, they become pure luxury: melt over scallops, stirr into risotto or simply spread on warm bread.

They can be a bit pricey, though, so I’ve devised this recipe to turn just one scallop into an impressive starter (or three into a satiating main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoky paprika butter and roasting them in their shells with cherry tomatoes and garlic, potential waste becomes a luxury.

That same spirit of transformation is at the heart of Regen Gathering, which, in partnership with Farm Jersey, has launched the Regen Food System Prize, offering £20,000 to support food pioneers with brand support, mentorship and access to the Co-op marketplace. Judged by some of my food heroes, Abby Rose (Farmerama), Josiah Meldrum (Hodmedod’s) and Patrick Holden (Sustainable Food Trust), the prize will be awarded at the Jersey Farming Conference in November. It’s about backing ideas that will help our food systems thrive, from soil to sea, and I can’t think of a more exciting place for that conversation to begin than Jersey.

Scallops roasted in roe butter with cherry tomatoes and garlic

Serves 6 as a starter or 2 as a main

6 roe-on scallops in the half-shell
18 cherry tomatoes, halved
6 garlic cloves, crushed
3 fresh red chillies (eg, jalapeño), halved lengthways, or 1 pinch chilli flakes, or to taste (optional)
50g unsalted butter
1 tsp smoked or sweet paprika
Sea salt and black pepper, to taste
Lemon wedges, to serve
A little samphire, agretti or 6 small gherkin slices, to garnish (optional)

Clean the scallops, removing the roe from each and leaving the rest of the scallop fixed to the half-shell (ask the fishmonger to do this for you, if need be). Put six cherry tomato halves in each shell with a clove’s worth of smashed garlic and half a red chilli, if using.

Put the scallop roes in the jug of an immersion blender (I find this is the best tool for blending small amounts), add the butter and paprika, and blitz smooth. Divide the butter between the half-shells, making sure each scallop is well covered in the butter.

Heat the grill until it’s scorching hot, then put the scallops under the heat for six to eight minutes, until blistered and bubbling. Serve immediately, garnished with optional samphire, agretti, a slice of gherkin and/or a drizzle of the gherkin brine or some lemon juice.